Published on March 27, 2023 at 2:02 p.m.
After announcing his retirement from fashion in 2020, Jean-Paul Gaultier finally created a surprise by proposing a new way to keep his fashion house alive. The terrible child of fashion now calls on renowned designers to create its haute couture collections. Reinterpreting the distinctive codes of the house of Jean Paul Gaultier with a fresh eye specific to each of the designers appointed artistic director for the duration of a collection, the couture shows of the French house are among the most anticipated shows of the weeks of the Parisian Haute Couture.
After Chitose Abe, founder of the Sacai label, who opened the ball for these new-fangled collaborations in July 2021, it was then Glenn Martens, artistic director of Y/Project, then Olivier Rousteing and finally Haider Ackermann who remixed in turn the universe of Jean Paul Gaultier through parades-events. The Colombian-born designer, the latest to rethink the codes of the iconic fashion house last January, has set the bar very high by presenting a collection with pure lines, paying homage to the making and construction of the Jean archives. Paul Gautier. A little over two months after this superb collection, the next name to take over the reins of the house has just come out: Julien Dossena, creative director of Paco Rabanne for 10 years.
Read also >> Julien Dossena: “The Paco Rabanne heritage has infused me”
Julien Dossena will present his couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier next July
If the rumor circulated in the fashion world for a few weeks, the news was made official by the magazine “WWD” this Monday, March 27. In an exclusive interview given to the American fashion magazine, Julien Dossena said he planned to take advantage of the wide range offered by Jean-Paul Gaultier’s long career to create a collection as “rich and generous” as his heritage. To do this, the artistic director delved into the house’s archives – a moment described as “constant amazement” in his words – and looked at different eras of the iconic French designer, such as the autumn-winter collection 1993, “Rabbi Chic”, that of 1986, “Russian Constructivist” or his debut at the Galerie Vivienne.
Wishing to embrace “the precision and flamboyance of couture techniques” without losing the cool, effortless and free DNA of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s work, Julien Dossena should undoubtedly succeed in this bet hands down. See you at Fashion Week Haute Couture in Paris, at the beginning of July, to discover her reinterpretation of the codes of the Jean Paul Gaultier house.